Underfloor Heating Installation
Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire & Cambridgeshire
Underfloor heating designed and installed across Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire and Cambridgeshire. New builds, extensions, whole house retrofits and single rooms. Call 01462 506 374 or request a survey.
Fully stocked vansOur vans carry the common parts, so most jobs are finished on the first visit.
12 month guaranteeEvery job carries a 12 month guarantee on our own labour. No quibble.
462 Google reviewsRated Excellent by the people we have already worked for.
24/7, 365 days a yearGas Safe registered, 956889. A person answers the phone, not a machine.



Wet or electric, and it is not a close call for most jobs
Wet underfloor heating runs warm water through pipe loops in or under the floor, fed from your boiler or heat pump through a manifold. It is the right answer for a whole room, a whole floor or a whole house. Running costs are gas rates rather than electricity rates, which is the whole argument.
Electric underfloor heating is a mat or cable under the floor covering, on a thermostat. It is thin, quick to fit and genuinely useful in one small room, typically an en suite or a bathroom, where you want a warm floor rather than a heat source. Used as primary heating for anything larger it costs a great deal to run, because you are heating with electricity at roughly four times the unit price of gas.
Our honest rule: electric for a bathroom floor as a comfort item, wet for anything expected to actually heat a room. Anyone quoting electric mats to heat a kitchen extension should be asked what the running cost will be.


Why it suits modern heating, and the regulation that made it matter
Radiators are traditionally designed around a flow temperature of roughly 60 to 85°C. Underfloor heating runs at around 32 to 55°C, because it emits from the whole floor area rather than one panel on a wall.
That used to be a technical footnote. It is now the point.
Approved Document L requires a newly installed or fully replaced wet heating system to be sized for a maximum flow temperature of 55°C. Radiators have to be enlarged, sometimes considerably, to hit that. Underfloor heating already operates below it. So on a new system, or an extension, UFH meets the requirement without compromise, and it leaves the property ready for a heat pump later without another rebuild.
A lower flow temperature also keeps a condensing boiler condensing, which is the only condition in which it reaches the efficiency printed on the box.
Screed or low profile, and the height problem
This is where most retrofit projects live or die.
Traditional screed. Insulation, then pipe, then screed over the top. Sand and cement screed needs a minimum of 65mm, liquid screed a minimum of 50mm. With insulation beneath, a conventional build up adds around 100mm to the floor level, which in most existing houses means doors, skirtings, architraves and often a step at every threshold.
Drying is the other constraint people underestimate. Hand mixed screed dries at roughly a day per millimetre for the first 50mm and two days per millimetre above that, so a 65mm screed is around eighty days before it should be commissioned, with four weeks the sensible absolute minimum. Liquid screed is much faster and can be accelerated.
Low profile overlay systems. Purpose made retrofit build ups from about 15mm to 22mm including a self levelling compound. Walkable in around eight hours, flooring down within about seventy-two, rather than the fifty to sixty days a traditional screed wants. You lose some thermal mass and therefore some of the slow steady character, but for a retrofit into an occupied house it is usually the only realistic option.
Between joist systems. Pipe laid between existing joists on aluminium spreader plates or pre grooved panels, adding no height at all. Ideal for a suspended timber floor. The catch is that the depth of your existing joists determines how much insulation can go beneath, and without adequate insulation you are heating the void and the ground rather than the room. BS EN 1264 sets a minimum thermal resistance of 0.75 m²K/W for intermediate floors, and on a ground floor you want considerably better than that.
On a period property there is one more thing worth saying out loud: heritage skirtings and architraves have to be adjusted to accommodate any build up, and on a listed building that is a conversation with the conservation officer before it is a conversation with us.
Floor coverings, and the numbers that actually constrain you
Most pages on this rank floor finishes by opinion. Here are the figures that are actually specified.
, and on a heat pump system preferably under 1.5. A nylon pile carpet typically comes in around 1 tog. The thickest wool carpets exceed 2.5 on their own and are not suitable without checking. Underlay is usually the bigger culprit, so choose it as part of the heating design rather than at the carpet shop.
BS EN 1264 sets design floor surface temperature at the design air temperature plus 9°C in occupied areas and plus 15°C in peripheral zones, which at a 20°C room is roughly 29°C and 35°C. Separately, BS 8425 puts laminate at no more than 28°C, some hardwood finishes specify a maximum of 27°C, and under carpet the surface should not exceed 27°C.
Tile and stone conduct well and take the highest surface temperatures, so they give the highest output. Engineered wood is stable across the temperature swings and is the usual answer where a wood finish is wanted. Solid wood moves with moisture and temperature and needs careful specification and acclimatisation. Carpet works within the tog limit but reduces output, so the room has to be designed for it from the start rather than carpeted afterwards.
Tell us the floor finish at survey stage. Changing it later changes the heat output of the room.
Controls, and why it is not like a radiator
A screed system holds heat. It takes roughly two to three hours to come up to temperature and it stays warm long after it has stopped. Low profile and spreader plate systems respond much faster because there is less mass to heat.
That changes how you run it. A screed system is not switched on and off like a radiator circuit. It is held at a steady temperature with a gentle setback, and controlled through the manifold with weather compensation where possible. Programming it like a radiator system produces a floor that is warm when you have gone out and cold when you get in.
The manifold carries the pump, the actuators for each loop, flow meters for balancing and, where the system also serves radiators, a blending valve to drop the underfloor circuit to its lower flow temperature. Each room or zone gets its own thermostat and its own loop.
Mixing underfloor heating and radiators
Common and entirely workable, usually underfloor downstairs and radiators upstairs, but it needs designing rather than tee-ing off.
The two circuits want different flow temperatures, so the underfloor side needs blending, its own pump and its own control, with the boiler set to serve the higher of the two. On a system already designed to the 55°C ceiling, the gap narrows and the whole thing gets simpler, which is another argument for doing the radiators properly at the same time.
What it costs and how long it takes
Quoted after a survey. The variables are floor construction, build up height available, insulation, floor finish, number of zones and whether the heat source and manifold position work, and a price given without seeing those is a guess.
The honest timescale points: a low profile retrofit into one or two rooms is a matter of days. A screed system is dictated by drying time, not by us, and if somebody promises you flooring down within a fortnight over a 65mm sand and cement screed, they are going to lay flooring over a wet screed.
Book a survey
Call 01462 506 374 or send us the details, including the floor construction if you know it and what finish you want. Across Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire and Cambridgeshire. Gas Safe registered, 956889.
Frequently asked questions
Is underfloor heating cheaper to run than radiators?
It can be, because it runs at a lower flow temperature and heats the room more evenly. Whether it actually is depends on the insulation, the floor construction and the heat source. In a well insulated floor with a modern condensing boiler or a heat pump it usually works out well. In a poorly insulated floor it does not.
Wet or electric?
Wet systems are the sensible choice for a whole floor or a whole house, because the running cost per unit of heat is far lower. Electric mats make sense for a single bathroom or an en suite, where the run is small and the pipework would be disruptive.
How much will it raise my floor level?
On a retrofit with low profile boards, typically 15mm to 25mm plus your floor finish. A traditional screed system is much deeper. Door thresholds, the bottom of the stairs and any level access shower need checking before anything is ordered, not after.
Can I have underfloor heating with a combi boiler?
Yes, with the correct blending arrangement and controls, because a combi is producing water far hotter than an underfloor circuit should ever see. What matters is the mixing valve and the control strategy, not the badge on the boiler.
What floor coverings can I use over it?
Tile and stone are the best performers. Engineered wood is fine within the manufacturer temperature limit. Solid timber and thick underlay under carpet are the ones that cause problems, because they insulate the very thing you are trying to heat through.
How long does an installation take?
A single room retrofit is usually one to two days. A whole ground floor depends heavily on the existing floor construction and whether a screed is going in, which brings a drying time of its own before you can commission it.
Areas we cover
We install underfloor heating throughout our coverage area.
- Hitchin
- Stevenage
- Letchworth
- Baldock
- Royston
- Biggleswade
- Sandy
- St Neots
- Bedford
- Luton
- Dunstable
- Harpenden
- St Albans
- Welwyn Garden City
- Hertford
- Ware
- Hemel Hempstead
- Hatfield
- Potters Bar
- Cambridge
- Shefford
- Stotfold
- Arlesey
- Knebworth
- Flitwick
- Ampthill
We work across Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire and Cambridgeshire from our base in Stevenage. If your village is not listed, ring 01462 506374 and we will tell you honestly whether we reach you.
Related: central heating installation, boiler installation, bathroom renovation and smart thermostats.
Need help today?
Call and speak to a person, any hour, any day of the year, or get a fixed price quote online.
What our customers say
Speak to a local engineer
Vantage Plumbing and Heating covers Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire and the surrounding areas. Call and talk to an engineer, or send us the details and we will come back to you with a price.
Gas Safe registered, number 956889. Emergency line answered 24/7.